Camino de Fisterra with a baby

Some people say they will walk together to the end of the world, we actually did. Here is how it went

Reaching Santiago was only our first stop. Our plan was to go to Fisterra, and as we learned about it on the way, to Muxia as well. This part of our camino really tested our physical abilities. The tiredness crept up and the rain surprised us and got us soaking wet for the first time on our journey.

Surprisingly, not a lot of people are actually walking it. Most of the people reach it by transport. There are buses to and from Santiago (and Muxia) several times a day.

The camino

Camino de Fisterra is the only Camino de Santiago that starts in Santiago. In the old days pilgrims that arrived to Santiago continued to walk 90km to Fisterra, which was considered the end of the world, to get a pilgrim shell to have a proof that they have completed the journey and are really pilgrims. In the modern times, you get the shells whenever you start walking but Fisterra still counts as a must-visit destination. If you opt in for walking it, like us, you can get a certificate of completion in the pilgrim office in Fisterra - It's called Fisterrana. If you also walk back to Santiago, you will get another Compostela!

There is another addition to this journey - a ghost village called Muxia, at a similar distance from Santiago and about 30km from Fisterra. Although it has no historical significance to the Camino de Santiago, it became part of the journey and many pilgrims visit it as well.

Our journey

Day 1 - Santiago de Compostela - Lombao 11.3km

Day 2 - Lombao - Negreira 12.1km

Day 3 - Negreira - Vilaserio 13km

Day 4 - Rest in Vilaserio

Day 5 - Vilaserio - Lago

Day 6 - Lago - O Logoso 10km

Day 7 - O Logoso - Cee 15.7km

Day 8 - Cee - Fisterra 16.6km

Day 9 - Rest in Fisterra

Day 10 - Fisterra - Negreira 62.1km (by bus)

Day 11 - Negreira - Santiago 24km (by car)

The baby

Santiago was the last stop where we saw our Camino Frances friends. That includes our son's fan club of grandmas, that must have been hard for him. He seemed to get over it fast, and met new fans along the way. Our routine of walk for 1.5-2 hours then stop to feed and play continued, other than that one rainy day that we had to walk for 4 hours straight.

We had a scare during the pouring rain, but in a miraculous way I managed to keep him mostly dry. Otherwise, he was the same happy baby, the happiest pilgrim on the camino.

Highlights

The way from O Logoso to Cee - This was the first time we had to walk 15km without stopping as there is nowhere to stop. The views on the way were probably the most amazing we had. This was also the first time we had pouring rain. All day (so imagine these amazing views when you can actually see them!). We will definitely remember this one.

Albergue A Casa da Fonte - Our stop in Cee, the nicest albergue on this part of the camino. It is run by a multicultural family that we connected to immediately. We got dry and warm, also in our hearts. They have a little girl of their own who became our baby's best friend for the duration of the stay

Praia da Langosteira - This is the beach the pilgrims go to to find their shells. You won't believe the amount of shells until you see it. You can actually find and buy a lot of shells along the camino, but a lot of them are made in China instead of being actual shells. The shells on the beach, of course, depend on the season.

Praia do Mar de Fora - I would call it "the end of the world beach". After you go to the touristy Faro de Fisterra with all the people, this place is the one that actually feels like the end of the world

O Pirata - An amazing seafood restaurant. Their products are daily fresh and the chef knows his way around the fish.

Faro de Fisterra - The lighthouse that signals the end of the world. Next to it is also the signal of 0km. Beware that EVERYONE goes there. Buses of tourists are stopping just in front of the lighthouse

Final thoughts

To me this destination was more impressive than Santiago itself. It felt like an actual accomplishment (don't forget the Fisterrana in the pilgrim office!). Lucy thought differently, but I'm writing the post so you'll have to have it my way. The pouring rain broke us a bit and we decided not to go to Muxia just to get wet again, and we even decided to go back to Santiago by transport. Our camino to Fisterra with our baby was unforgettable. One day we will come back for Muxia. Until then, let us know what we've missed!